The Perfect “In-Between” Escape

Visited March 2026

By the end of March, I found myself in a familiar situation, unused annual leave and a growing urge to get away from dreary UK winter. I didn’t want long-haul, but somewhere that felt like a change of scenery and warm enough to be outside all day with more than just beach days. Madeira turned out to be exactly that sweet spot.

Madeira had been on my radar for a while, after seeing so many pictures and reels of the wonderful hiking routes. Late March temperatures hover in that comfortable zone where you can hike in a t-shirt (mostly), sit outside with a drink in the evening, and not feel like you’re melting.

As a solo traveller, I almost never hire a car. Partly cost, partly confidence, and honestly, I quite enjoy figuring out places using public transport. So I based myself in Funchal, the island’s capital, and built an itinerary around what I could realistically reach by bus (with the occasional taxi when needed).

Funchal made the perfect base:

- Well connected by local buses
- Plenty of restaurants and cafes
- Easy access to coastal paths and viewpoints
- A good mix of “busy enough” but still relaxed

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Jump to:

1. Funchal (Funchal, Old Town, Jardim de Monte Palace)
2. Hiking Trails
   • Pico de Ariero & Vereda de Berro
   • Sao Lourenco
3. Nuns Valley to Camara de Lobos 
4. Beaches and Rock Pools (Seixal and Doca do Cavacas)
5. Travel
6. Food Spots

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Funchal

Social media is full of posts of all the different walking trails around the island, but exploring Funchal itself is just as enjoyable, with a good mix of things to see and do as you walk around. On my first evening in Madeira, I walked along the promenade up to Parque Santa Catarina, a short uphill walk from which you can see the city open out below. It was a lovely spot to just sit and watch across the harbour. I went for sunset, listening to the cruise ships send calls for their passengers to return, and though you couldn't quite see the sun set from here, it was nice just to watch the sky slowly change.

My first full day was spent wondering around Funchal, starting with a brunch at Between Cafe, located in centre of Funchal. Once I was fuelled up, I took a trip to Jardim Monte Palace. This was a lovely tropical garden, about 5km from the main centre of Funchal, located higher into the hilltops. There is a cable car that goes up from Teleférico do Funchal in the Funchal Old Town (near the sea), however this was closed during my visit for maintenance, which I didn't realise until I got to the station. So I settled for the bus, a few streets away. The buses are pretty easy to get and there is a bus stop with a big sign 'Monte' above it in the centre where you can get the bus 21 from. The journey up took about 30mins and it drops you off right by the gardens. 

I spent a couple of hours here, exploring the different flora, art and most importantly admiring the flamingos! There are also a couple of small little galleries within the garden, making it a lovely way to spend the morning.

After the gardens, I walked up to Local Shop Quiosque do Teleférico for a drink and bite to eat. This had lovely views of the valley and had some good snacks ranging from toasties, salads and cakes to name a few.

On the way back to Funchal centre, you can opt to take the famous toboggan ride part way down  to Livramento. These are famous toboggans made from wicker and guided by the famous carreiros.  I didn't have a go on one, but had lots of fun just watching people going down.  

Instead I chose to walk from Monte Palace, back down to the main centre of Funchal. This was about an hour walk, and 20 minutes in, I somewhat regretted it due to the steep downward slope and pressure on my knees. But aside from the knees, it was a nice slow walk back into the centre, walking through some local neighbourhoods, seeing the toboggans go by, and hearing the sounds of cockerels.

Hiking Trails

Hiking in Madeira felt like the main event of the trip, isn't that what everyone goes for?

Both hikes I did (PR1 Pico de Ariero and PR8 São Lourenço) required tickets booked in advance through SIMplifica. Easy enough to sort, but worth doing ahead of time so you’re not caught out.

PR1 (Pico de Arieira) + PR3 (Vereda de Burro)

This was the big one, and the earliest start of the trip. I booked this through Get Your Guide, and it was the Pico do Arieiro Sunrise Hiking Transfer. It’s actually a self guided tour but includes drop off and pick up with the guide giving key information needed before we started the hike. If you don’t have a car, I highly recommend this as a cheap easy way to do PR1 at sunrise.

A 4am wake-up for a 5:15am pickup, stepping out into streets already dotted with other hikers waiting in the dark. There’s something oddly reassuring about it, like you’re all in on the same slightly mad plan.

We started at Pico do Arieiro, just in time for sunrise… and honestly, I got lucky. A completely clear morning, standing above the clouds watching the sky change colour. Breathtaking views, though I forgot to take gloves so couldn’t feel my hands by the end of it.

I met a couple who had done the same hike two days earlier and saw nothing. Not even their hands in front of them, so it really is luck on the day. Just remember it is a nature walk and not a guaranteed view. My driver told me that people have complained in the past and asked for refunds due to the weather and poor visibility.

The first section (PR1), still partially closed when I visited, takes you up toward what’s known as the “stairway to heaven” – and it feels like it. But what no one really prepares you for is the wind. It was strong. The kind where you genuinely feel like you might be blown sideways if you’re not careful. Add in lack of sleep, hunger, altitude and the cold, I had to stop at points to catch my breath.

Once the partial PR1 trail was complete, I went on to PR3 Vereda de Berro, which starts at the same point as PR1 but follows a different route, dropping you down into greener valleys, following a river. I ended up walking this route with another solo traveller which was nice as this was a much quieter route. The trails are well signposted, though we did miss a turn at one point and nearly ended up on the wrong path.

And by the time you descend, you go from layers and freezing at the top… to walking in just a t-shirt. Total contrast. All in all, it took about 4.5 hours with stops.

PR8: Sao Lourenco

Completely different vibe, but just as good. Getting there was easy, bus 113 straight from Funchal, drop off right at the start point.

Unlike PR1, this one is lower down, more open and gradual. At times, it honestly reminded me of walking somewhere in England… (on a good weather day), with gorgeous coastline and ocean views on both sides the entire way.

And again the wind made an appearance. Not quite “blow you off a mountain” level like PR1, but still strong enough to keep you aware of it.

The main challenge comes right at the end with a steeper incline up to the final viewpoint. It’s not long, but after the walk, you feel it.

Just before that, there’s a café stop with toilets and food. I decided to get to the top first and then reward myself with a cake afterwards. Be aware that there can be long queues in this cafe, especially for the toilet (30 mins in my case). So if you’re tight on time, factor that in.

One thing to note: it’s out and back on the same path, so on the return I definitely stopped less and just enjoyed the walk back without constantly taking photos.

Final Thoughts on Hiking in Madeira

These hikes couldn’t have been more different, but that’s what makes Madeira so good, one moment you’re above the clouds in freezing wind; the next you’re walking coastal paths in a t-shirt

Just go in prepared:

• Expect wind (seriously)
• Don’t rely on perfect weather
• Bring simple, reliable snacks (boiled eggs underrated snack!)
• And pace yourself

Levada walks are another huge part of hiking in Madeira, these are trails that follow historic irrigation channels, usually more shaded, flatter, and winding through forests and valleys. I didn’t manage to fit one in this time, mainly because with limited days (and it being March), I prioritised more open hikes for the views and sunlight, but they’re definitely ones I will come back for.

Nuns Valley to Câmara de Lobos

Returning by bus, I got off at Praia Formosa and spent some time sitting on the beach before walking along the coast towards Câmara de Lobos. It's a lovely gentle walk along the coastline and a good way to see more of the island. 

By the time I got to Câmara de Lobos, it felt completely different to how I had that morning. It’s a small fishing village with colourful boats, little cafés, and people just going about their day. I spent a bit of time wandering through the streets, spotting bits of graffiti and just taking it in without any real plan.

After that, I walked up to Jardim do Ilhéu, just above the beach, and ended up staying there for a while. I had my book, the view over the sea and cliff line, and watched the sun start to go down. It was a gorgeous evening, a bit breezy but nothing to terrible. After watching the sunset, I headed back into Funchal by bus. There are lots of nice eating options in Camara but I still wasn't feeling too great so didn't want to stay out.

Beaches and rock pools

Seixal is often described as one of the most picturesque spots on the island, known for its black sand beach framed by steep green mountains. It certainly looks the part, but for me, it didn’t quite feel that way.

The north of Madeira has a completely different energy to the south. On the day I visited, it was noticeably colder, windier, and far less inviting. The kind of place where you admire the scenery, but don’t necessarily want to linger, though I'm sure on a hot sunny day, this would feel different.

Getting there also took a bit of effort. There’s no direct bus to Seixal, and after some back and forth trying to piece together a route, I ended up taking a taxi just to see what all the fuss was about.

Once there, you’ll find natural rock pools nearby where you can swim, and if you have a car, it’s much easier to explore further, whether that’s heading west to Porto Moniz for its famous rock pools, or east towards some incredible viewpoints along the coast.

There’s also the option of guided tours if you’re not driving, but from what I found, most only stop briefly at each location, feeling more like a quick photo opportunity than a chance to properly experience the place.

I can imagine Seixal being completely different in the sun, warmer, calmer, somewhere you’d want to stay for hours. But for me, after about an hour of sitting there, watching the waves crash against the shore, slightly windswept and cold, I decided to head back south.

Doca do Cavacas

Spending the afternoon back on the South of the island at Doca Do Cavacas was definitely the right decision. The sun was out, the air was warmer, and the whole atmosphere shifted from dramatic to relaxed.

I found a spot by the natural pools and stayed there for most of the afternoon, dipping in and out of the water, not really doing much at all. It’s smaller and less polished than some of the more well-known spots, but that’s what I liked about it.

For €5.50 entry (plus €2.50 for a sunbed), it felt like an easy win. There’s a small bar on site, along with changing facilities but worth noting there are no lockers, so you’ll need to keep your belongings close.

After the wild, windswept feel of the north, this was exactly what I needed: sun, stillness, and a chance to properly switch off on my last day in Madeira.

After a relaxing afternoon, I opted for a slow walk back to Funchal, stopping for dinner at Casa Velha for a delicious meal before heading back to my apartment.

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Getting around without a car

Travelling around Madeira without a car wasn't always the easiest, and it does mean you won’t be able to do everything you might have planned. That said, after seeing some of the island’s steep, winding roads, I was quite glad not to be driving them myself.

Getting from the airport to Funchal is straightforward. There’s a direct bus that takes around 30 minutes and costs roughly €6.50, or you can take a taxi which is fairly reasonably priced.

Once in Funchal, it’s very walkable. Most of the central areas are easy to explore on foot, but there are also plenty of local buses if needed. For taxis, both Bolt and Uber operate here, but Bolt is more widely available and generally cheaper.

For places like Nuns Valley and Monte Palace, there are buses running from Funchal (or the cable cars to Monte), which makes them relatively easy to visit without a tour. For Monte Palace, you can get bus 20, 21, 22 or 48 from Funchal.

The PR8 São Lourenço hike is one of the few that’s directly accessible by public transport. White SIGA bus (113) run from Avenida do Mar, by the marina in Funchal and take you straight to the trailhead. The bus stop isn't sign posted at all so it is a bit of a guessing game (but I think Pizza Hut/McDonalds were sort of opposite the stop). It’s worth checking the timetable in advance as services aren’t very frequent and don’t run late, especially on weekends.

Where it gets more difficult is reaching the north and northwest of the island. Places like Seixal, Fanal Forest, Porto Moniz, and Achadas da Cruz aren’t easily accessible by bus from Funchal (at least not from what I found). Because of that, I ended up skipping most of these of these spots. If they’re high on your list and you don’t have a car, a guided tour is probably your best option.

Food spot faves

Madeira has so many great food choices including fresh fish and lots of healthy options. A few of my favourites that I went to are:

*Akua
*Yuki
*Nomade
*Casa Azul
*Tea House
*Between Cafe

Final Thoughts

Madeira is great for all ages and also if travelling solo, it felt very safe and walkable. If you like a mix of relaxation, walking and exploring the towns then add this to your list. If sandy beaches are more your thing, consider heading to Porto Santo for a a day or two which is a smaller island not far from Madeira. There are plenty of boat trips that will take you there.